KVA Stainless Steel Bicycle Tubing

KVA Stainless processed martensitic stainless steel tubing is ideally suited for use in high-performance bicycle frame applications.

• Heat-treated to ultra-high strength: tensile strength > 200 ksi (1400 MPa)
• Air-hardening alloy, yet easy to fabricate (38-42 Rockwell C hardness)
• Best suited for silver-brazed or TIG welded construction
• "Feel of steel" - plus corrosion resistance gives excellent ride quality and durability
• Precision Made in U.S.A.

After years of engineering and development, KVA Stainless is introducing its new, patented, custom-made stainless steel bicycle tubing called MS²® for high-performance bicycle frame applications.

Already proven by KVA Stainless in other industries, patented KVA martensitic stainless structural tubing can now be integrated into high performance bicycle frames to reduce weight, increase strength and stiffness, at a significant cost decreases over competitive materials. KVA Stainless controlled atmosphere thermal processing ensures consistent, high-quality tubing.

MS²® is an air-hardenable, martensitic stainless steel with amazing tensile strength > 200 ksi (1400 Mpa) which means it’s twice as strong as titanium with a frame weight comparable to high-end aluminum. The tubing has excellent corrosion-resistance, with elongation > 14% and a hardness ~ 38-42 HRC.

MS²® tubing is made in the U.S.A. from first quality domestic stainless steel alloys using the most modern forming, welding and precision thermal processing technology available to produce custom-made tubing; including variable wall thickness known as "butted" tubes.

You should expect excellent ride characteristics with outstanding durability and toughness from our new MS²® bicycle tubing. Excellent mechanical properties, including specific strength and stiffness, toughness and fatigue performance, can be achieved using MS²® tubing in place of other materials.

Ideal applications include silver brazed lugged construction and TIG welded bicycle frames.

Ed McCrink, the founder of KVA Stainless set up Hi-Temp, Inc. in 1953 and grew the company into one of the largest thermal processors of martensitic stainless steels in the United States. Successful with this venture, Mr. McCrink sold Hi-Temp in the 1970s and, with an entrepreneurial spirit, moved on to a number of different ventures. But Mr. McCrink couldn't forget about martensitic stainless steel. Mr. McCrink wondered why people weren't using this material in structural applications. Years after he sold the company, he came back to his roots of metallurgy, and he wanted to introduce the high strength features and benefits of martensitic stainless steel to different industries.

Working with a couple of engineers and metallurgists, Mr. McCrink developed a way to take flat sheets of martensitic stainless steel and transform them into tubes. Rolling the sheet to create the tube was never the hard part, welding a seam in martensitic steel so the tube became one solid structure or homogenous was always the issue. After years of engineering and testing, Mr. McCrink found a method to prevent the inherent cracking and weakness when a stainless steel tube is seam welded.

The resulting stainless tube is light and strong, and not nearly as expensive to produce as a seamless tube when compared to other stainless steel alloys or other metals, including titanium.

Bicycle Frame Materials

Strength, Safety, and Weight

In the hierarchy of cycling needs, cyclists care about weight, the feel of the ride, strength, and price.

Weight has been hyped in the media to the point that manufacturers are creating frames that are just one bad bump away from disaster. If you have not seen the results of failed forks and handlebars, try Googling "broken fork." It's not a pretty picture. The number of failures in high-end forks and frames is astounding, all because manufacturers feel pressure to defy the laws of physics with lighter and lighter forks and frames.

Safety is defined not just by the durability of a part, but also by the warnings the rider receives before component failure. A part that bends before it breaks is safer than one that snaps suddenly. Material strength equals safety, but what kind of strength?

Strength is measured in several ways, and it pays to consider all of them:

Impact Strength denotes how much concussive energy a component can absorb in a single blow without failing. Impact strength can be tested in a laboratory, but as a practical matter in cycling it is irrelevant. That’s because a severe impact will dislodge a rider long before it threatens the integrity of a frame or fork. Once the rider is down, the state of the part is meaningless.

Fatigue Strength is a measure of how well a material withstands repeated stress cycles. Fatigue strength is critical for a bicycle, since the rider constantly flexes a frame by pushing the pedals and pulling on the handlebars. Aluminum has the least fatigue strength among popular framebuilding materials. Steel, and Stainless Steel, by contrast, has the best... even exceeding that of titanium alloys. It can flex an infinite number of times below its "endurance limit" - a stress threshold for which no amount of cyclic loading will cause failure. This stress level is never approached simply by cycling on a properly designed and built steel (and stainless steel) frame.

Material (Fracture) Toughness is the feature of a material that describes its ability to prevent a nick from turning into a crack, and a crack from turning into a break. Toughness is another area where steel and Stainless Steel far outperforms aluminum, carbon fiber, and titanium. Think about it: When was the last time you saw carbon fiber nails, or aluminum rebar? Never.

Ultimate Tensile Strength (UTS) is a widely cited measurement of material strength. UTS is measured by pulling apart a test coupon made with material of a specific thickness and length. The UTS of tubing is not insignificant, but it is vastly overrated as a measurement of the strength. Bicycle frames are not torn in half, nor do they fail because of uniaxial tension. Other factors, such as fatigue, cracking, and impact will cause a frame to fail long before UTS becomes a factor. Glass has extremely high UTS because it is difficult to pull apart, but a glass bicycle would not last long on a mountain trail or even a street. All the materials used in traditional bicycle tubing have sufficient UTS to be safe.

The feature most critical to rider safety is its mode of failure. That is, how long the material will support the rider after its integrity has been breached by a crack, a hole, a dent, or even a deep scratch. A rapid–even instantaneous–failure is known as a catastrophic failure. Catastrophic failure leads to injury.

Of the most common materials used in bike frames today, carbon fiber has the highest rate of catastrophic failure. Steel and Stainless Steel has the lowest rate of catastrophic failure. When steel fails, it fails slowly. In a sport where speed is the name of the game, failure is the one area where it's good to be slow. Real slow.

Metals responds to force by bending, denting, and even stretching (elongation), not by snapping and shattering. The slow rate of failure provides time for the rider to pick up warning signals, feeling something is wrong prior to the failure of a component, preventing injury.

Of secondary importance, but worth considering, is reparability. The old auto body shop adage is “metal has memory.” Steel can be repaired more completely and more easily than other materials can.

Comparing frame materials that are new is one thing, but what about frame materials that have aged? Different materials age in different ways. Environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, air salinity, ozone, and ultraviolet radiation all affect framing material. Life is a laboratory that is constantly fizzing.

In the harsh world of chemical change, metals outlast plastics and carbon fiber. A weak point of carbon fiber is in the resins that hold the carbon fiber layers together. These resins are prone to degradation when exposed to ultraviolet light from the sun.

However, metals are not exempt from environmental degradation. Typical bicycle tubeset aluminum alloys, for example, "age" naturally to higher strengths over an extended period of time. While a stronger tube may appear better, the microstructural change robs the material of its ductility and can cause premature brittle failure – especially around welded joints.

The phrase "environmental degradation" often evokes images of metallic corrosion–rusted wheel wells, corroded hinges, and leaky watering cans. Rust (a term reserved for the corrosion byproduct of steel reacting with oxygen) actually builds up a protective layer that protects the underlying steel against further environmental damage. That is why it is not uncommon in some parts of the world to see 20-, 30-, even 40-year-old rust-covered steel-framed bikes still in use. Of course, the thicker the steel, the less vulnerable it is to failure due to corrosion. Super-thin, 0.35mm steel tube frames are more vulnerable to damage from rust than thicker-walled tubes are. However, diligent care with anti-rust, protective film sprays such as FrameSaver, Boesheild T9, and LPS can prevent corrosion. If you prefer old-school solutions, try coating the steel frame with linseed oil or automotive waxes. Alternatively, Stainless Steel tubing offers corrosion resistance as well as high strength. A "passive layer" of adherent chromium oxide forms to protect stainless steel from further environmental degradation. Under most conditions, this protective layer is self healing – if scratched new chromium oxide layer will form nearly instantaneously.

Another important, but rarely discussed, aspect of frame material is defect tolerance. No one wants to admit that materials have defects, but they do. It is impossible to manufacture quantities of anything without occasional defects. Even in the white-coated, "dust-free" environments, defects creep into materials. That’s why everyone from rocket engineers to computer chip manufacturers build defect tolerance and safety factors into their designs. Bicycle manufacturers should, too. The important thing to know is how an unseen defect will affect the strength and integrity of the material. A material that is more defect-tolerant is less likely to fail. Steel and Stainless Steel are materials that are highly defect-tolerant, due to their high toughness and durability. Carbon fiber is the least defect-tolerant of all materials used in the making of bicycle frames.

Shock absorption is another material quality that makes for a safer and smoother ride. The physics of shock absorption are as old as Newton's laws of motion: Every action causes and equal and opposite reaction. A shock is absorbed by motion–compression, deflection, or both, and dissipated within the material. Something has to give.

The idea that a shock can be absorbed without motion is a myth. One marketing claim is that carbon fiber forks absorb shocks well, creating a smoother, more comfortable ride. It sounds promising, but it conflicts with basic physics. Carbon fiber is very stiff, so there is relatively little movement to absorb the shock. Metal absorbs some shock through compression and deflection, but only suspension forks truly absorb shocks, because they move. Otherwise, the best way to create a smoother ride is to deflate your tires and lighten up on your grip.

Vibration damping is a phrase heard a lot in the cycling world, but its importance is exaggerated. The term refers to a material's tendency to absorb and dissipate vibrations after some force causes it to start vibrating. Wind chimes produce sustained vibration, pleasing their owners but often annoying the neighbors. Vibration is the result of high-frequency flex or applied loads. The flex of a component is influenced by the material it is made with, its size, and its shape.

The entire discussion of vibration damping is somewhat academic when it comes to cycling, however, since bicycle parts are not suspended in the air like a tuning fork. A bicycle is composed of multiple components, including the frame, the fork, rubber tires. Most importantly, a bicycle is in contact with the ground and it supports a rider whose body absorbs vibrations of the frame. Having said this, the bulk material properties can be used to generalize the "feel" of a frame and its tendency to damp vibrations. Carbon fiber, being very stiff (with a high elastic modulus) is considered by many to be harsh, transmitting every bump and ripple directly to the rider – causing fatigue and discomfort after long rides. Aluminum, magnesium and even titanium have been described as "soft and mushy", with their lower elastic modulus and stiffness. Riders enjoy the feel of steel and stainless steel – the resiliency and liveliness of the material is without comparison.

Physical comfort on a bicycle is influenced by several factors, of which frame materials is the least important. The height of the handlebars, the distance from the seat to the pedals, and the air pressure in the tires all contribute more to a comfortable ride than the frame materials do. Raise the handlebars, move the seat back, and decrease tire pressure for greater comfort. Remember to relax your body and lighten your grip, too.

Comfort is as much psychological as it is physical. A bike may fit your body perfectly, but if your mind is unsettled about it, it won't feel right. For example, a woman who grew up with an open "girls" frame might not ever feel comfortable on a standard diamond style frame. Similarly, hardcore racers who curled their 6-foot bodies around a 56cm frame might never get used to a 62cm frame, even if it is a better fit for their size. The same goes for frame materials. Steel affords the maximum strength and safety, but some people resist it on psychological grounds, mainly because of perceived weight penalties.

Consider this: The weight of the bicycle frame makes up only ¼ of the overall weight of a bicycle, and the bicycle is only 1/10 of the overall weight with a rider in place. In other words, frame weight is only 1/40 or 2.5 percent of the overall weight. So shaving a pound off the frame weight will change your overall weight by less than one percent. You can double that weight change simply by losing two pounds of body weight.

Many people believe engineering is more important than materials, but that is not entirely true. The differences in material–especially failure modes–can increase safety and reduce injuries. Steel and stainless steel frames may sound out of date, but for strength, safety, reparability, durability, and aesthetic beauty, nothing beats steel or Stainless Steel. Enjoy the Feel of Steel^TM

Contact us with inquiries.

KVA Stainless Steel Bicycle Tubing Info

Contact us with inquiries.

KVA Stainless Steel Bicycle Tubing Sizes

KVA Stainless Martensitic Stainless tubes are made in the U.S.A. from first quality domestic stainless alloys using the most modern forming, welding and precision thermal processing technology available...

Double butted Main Tubes:

---

Tapered Stays: (CALL FOR MORE SIZES!)

---

Empty Cart Checkout

Gallery

Framebuilders List

Care & Maintenance: Cleaning Stainless Steel

How can light to moderate rust stains be removed?

Corrosion or rust staining can be caused by coastal or deicing salts, atmospheric contaminants, inappropriate cleaning products, and superficial carbon steel or iron contamination. The mild abrasive products that are used for removing adherent or hardened deposits will remove most light to moderate rust staining.

Light staining can often be removed by the standard cleaning products used to remove dust and fingerprints from surfaces. Try one of these first before using more aggressive cleaning products.

In some parts of the world, you can obtain mild abrasive (200 mesh or finer calcium carbonate) household cleaners that contain dilute acids that are very effective in dissolving rust stains. The acids that are often used for this purpose are citric acid, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, and oxalic acid. Do not use any product that contains hydrochloric acid for this purpose because it can cause surface corrosion. The potential environmental impact of using acid must be assessed before use. They are the products that are most typically used for restoring neglected stainless steel building exteriors and are usually sufficient.

There are also commercial rust removal products that are specifically designed for use on stainless steel. Do not use a general “rust removal” product without identifying its ingredients and determining if they are acceptable for use on stainless steel. Test any new product on a small stainless steel surface prior to use to make sure that it does not cause color change. Follow manufacturer's instructions for application and surface rinsing. These products typically contain phosphoric, nitric, citric, or oxalic acid. Determine the potential environmental impact before use. For example, the concentrations of nitric acid that are used may over-fertilize and kill nearby plants. Spray gels that allow controlled application and longer dwell times should be used instead of liquids. Some manufacturer's have neutralizers that can be spray on top of the gel while it is in place to reduce the environmental impact.

If corrosion staining is removed but returns rapidly (within a few days or weeks), it is likely that the surface has been contaminated with heavily embedded carbon steel or iron. These generally have to be removed by grinding and refinishing and/or by pickling. If welds have not been properly cleaned and heat tint was left on the surface, the welds will need to be ground and/or pickled to restore corrosion resistance. Information on restoring the corrosion resistance of a weld can be obtained from welding product suppliers or on one of the following websites: www.euro-inox.org or www.stainlessarchitecure.org.

How can paint and marker pen stains be removed?

Use a proprietary alkaline or solvent paint stripper after first testing it on a stainless steel sample or a low visibility area to make sure that it does not cause surface discoloration. Use a soft, bristle brush that will not scratch the surface to loosen the paint or marker pen residue.

Permanent marker pen stains may require repeated applications of paint stripper. They can be very difficult to remove from rough surfaces. A 200 mesh or finer calcium carbonate cleaning product may help to remove the final remnants of the stain. (See the standard cleaning sections.) In the worst cases, light refinishing may be necessary.

What is the best way to remove adhesives?

If possible, contact the adhesive manufacturer and obtain their advice. The cleaning products that are necessary to remove specific adhesives can vary considerably. Solvents are generally used in combination with a soft bristle plastic brush and a soft clean cloth for applying the solution. After using the solvent, it is usually best to wash the stainless steel with a mild detergent solution to remove any residual solvent (see the questions on standard cleaning).

• Remove the tape, adherent stickers, strippable film and other deposits by hand. Avoid the use of abrasives or brushes that could scratch the surface. Plastic scrapers may be used to gently remove deposits without scratching the surface.
• Initially try rubbing alcohol, a citric acid cleaner or a product that combines these ingredients. Other less hazardous solvents and adhesive removers may be tried.
• Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or products containing this chemical are usually the most effective means of removing adherent adhesives, particularly those that have been on a surface for some time. They are hazardous and should be avoided if possible. Use the chemical sparingly with appropriate precautions as described in the manufacturer’s literature.

How should I remove adherent or hardened grime deposits (not containing adhesives)?

Adherent deposits can range from hydrocarbon or oil and dirt mixtures to bird droppings. Degreasers can effectively loosen deposits containing hardened hydrocarbons or oil. Mild abrasives can be useful for a range of deposits but they may not be suitable for colored or mirror-polished finishes. Test in a low visibility spot before use. Follow manufacturer's application and rinsing instructions.

• Use an acid free liquid degreaser that is designed for use on stainless steel.
• Use a pH neutral, acid free cleaning product that contains a 200 mesh or finer calcium carbonate abrasive and detergent. There are various proprietary products sold around the world with this basic composition. These products are typically mixed with enough water to create a paste and then applied to the surface. Some of these products are more effective if they are allowed to sit on the surface for 10 -15 minutes before rubbing. Rub gently until deposit is removed. Rinse thoroughly to remove all of the cleaning product residue.
• Some mild abrasive cleaners contain acid to help loosen deposits or remove corrosion staining. Others contain chlorides. Determine whether the acid is acceptable for use on stainless steel prior to use. If chlorides are present, thorough rinsing is even more important.

How can I remove heavy fingerprints, grease or oil?

Hydrocarbon solvents are necessary for complete removal of heavier grease and oil deposits. This may include alkaline formulations with surfactant additions. .It is always a good idea to test the cleaner on a sample to make sure they will not harm the surface. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and surface rinsing.

• Use an oil-free citric acid cleaner that is designed for grease removal.
• Hot water power washing with a mild detergent, oil-free citric acid cleaner, or a degreasing solution designed for this purpose can cut through many grease and oil deposits.
• Apply an acid free, liquid degreaser that is specifically designed for use on stainless steel.

How can I remove fingerprints from small areas?

Use the same products that are used for cleaning larger surfaces (see previous question). Dilute dishwashing detergent is typically a more effective degreaser than a window cleaner. Proprietary oil, hydrocarbon, and wax free stainless steel degreasers are effective and are generally less messy than a detergent and water solution. It is best to check the ingredients for anything that might be corrosive to stainless steel and to test any cleaner in a less visible spot before use.

How can light surface contaminants, such as dirt and light fingerprints, be removed from an exterior application? (no corrosion).

It is not uncommon to clean stainless steel when the windows are cleaned to keep it sparkling clean. Vinegar or ammonia-containing window cleaning products will remove light dirt and fingerprints from stainless steel.

Liquid dishwashing detergent or automotive detergent can be used as long as the product does not leave a coating on the surface. Coatings can adversely affect appearance and corrosion performance over time. These products can remove heavier dirt deposits and fingerprinting than window cleaners. The detergent should contain a degreaser. Some liquid detergents contain chlorides. Use chloride-free, pH neutral products if available. If the product contains low levels of chlorine or chlorides, it is important to thoroughly rinse off any residual detergent or it may increase the probability of corrosion.

If water infiltration is a concern, hand wash the surface. If water infiltration is not a concern, hot water power washing can be used. This is a common means of keeping railings, benches and similar exterior applications attractive while minimizing costs. The best results are obtaining by power washing with a cleaning product that contains a detergent and degreaser.

There are also proprietary spray-on industrial oil and wax free stainless steel fingerprint removers designed for use on stainless steel that do not leave a coating on the surface. These products will also remove light dirt deposits. Check the ingredients carefully and follow manufacturer's instructions.

Are all "stainless steel cleaners" safe for stainless steel?

No, some products whose labels identify them as a "stainless steel cleaner" contain chlorides or acids that can cause stainless steel corrosion. It is especially important to avoid any cleaner that contains hydrochloric acid (also called Muriatic acid). Other “stainless steel cleaners” contain coarse abrasives that will scratch the finish.

Do not assume that a product is appropriate because of its "stainless steel cleaner" label. Check the ingredients and, if necessary, test the cleaner on a low visibility spot before use.

How can I remove resistant water spots?

Resistant water spots are usually caused by using rinse water with a high contained-solids content and allowing water to dry on the surface. The water leaves mineral deposits on the surface when it dries. There are proprietary cleaners designed specifically for removing these deposits from stainless steel.

How can I avoid water spots?

If rinse water is needed, use clean potable water, preferably with a low contained-solids content. Remove the water from the stainless steel surface with an air blower or a clean, soft plastic or rubber wiper that is designed for removing water from glass. If the rinse water will be allowed to dry on the surface, use de-ionized water.

A carbon steel brush or abrasive pad was used to clean the welds on a stainless steel railing. Within a few days, there was rust on the surface. Why did this happen?

Carbon steel particles from the brush or pad probably became embedded in the surface. These embedded particles will rust as quickly as bare carbon steel. The corrosion rate will vary with the environment and corrosion could appear in as little as a few days or as long as a few weeks after the “cleaning”. This contamination should be removed. A stainless steel passivation product that contains nitric, citric, oxalic, or another suitable acid may remove the carbon steel if it is not deeply embedded in the surface. If corrosion returns after cleaning, finish restoration will require grinding and/or pickling, typically with pickling paste.

The best means of restoring the corrosion resistance of a weld is to pickle and grind the weld area. Stainless steel abrasive pads and brushes may remove the heat tint, but they may not remove the chromium-depleted layer and this will make the welded joint more susceptible to corrosion. If an abrasive pad or brush is used to remove heat tint, it should always be stainless steel and it is important to make sure that that brush or pad is only used on stainless steel.

"Copyright © 2008 International Molybdenum Association. All rights reserved. International Molybdenum Association does not make any representations or warranties regarding the accuracy, timeliness or completeness of the above text. The International Molybdenum Association will not be responsible for any loss or damage caused by relying on this text."

DISCLAIMER
You are solely responsible for evaluating the accuracy and completeness of any content appearing on the Website. KVA Stainless, Inc. does not make any representations or warranties in relation to the content appearing on this Website. In particular, KVA Stainless, Inc. does not make any representations or warranties regarding the accuracy, timeliness or completeness of the content. KVA Stainless will not be responsible for any loss or damage caused by relying on the content contained in the Website.

KVA Stainless Steel Bicycle Tubing FAQ

Contact us with inquiries.